Water service line and galvanized pipe replacement
Pressure that's dropped for years, rusty water on start-up, an upstairs tap reduced to a trickle: classic signs of a galvanized pipe corroded shut from the inside.
Services
Every thaw, the floor drain backs up before the weeping drain can keep up: a sign of a missing check valve or a foundation drain at the end of its life.
During spring thaw, the water table rises faster than the ground can absorb it, and the combined sewer network across several West Island sectors gets overloaded at the same time. Without a backwater valve on the floor drain, water — sometimes municipal wastewater too — comes back up through the basement's lowest point.
We install mechanical backwater valves on the floor drain and, where the foundation allows it, a sump pump with a battery backup alarm for finished basements. We also check the weeping drain's condition: clay-tile drains installed before the 1970s clog with roots and sand and lose their capacity over time.
A floor drain that gurgles or smells musty after a heavy rain is often the first sign before a full backup. We get in with a camera and a snake before it turns into a finished-basement emergency.
We can tell the original weeping drain from a redone one without digging the full length: a camera run through the floor drain shows whether the pipe is clay — short sections joined together, often invaded by roots — or modern perforated PVC, in smooth continuous lengths. A clay drain that's still working doesn't need replacing just because it's old; it's the loss of capacity, shown by slow drainage or repeat backups, that justifies the work.
A weeping-drain section blocked by tree roots can sometimes be cleared with a high-pressure water jet and put back in service without excavation. But when several sections along the same wall are clogged, or the original slope has settled out of shape over the years, only a full replacement of the affected section restores reliable drainage — jetting a drain that's lost its slope just delays the next backup.
A backwater valve on the floor drain runs roughly $900 to $1,800, depending on access to the drain and the model chosen. Weeping-drain replacement is priced by the foundation section affected rather than the whole house, at $8,000 to $18,000, because each section means excavating along a single wall. Foundation depth, a patio or an addition sitting right above it, and access through the yard or a narrow laneway all factor into the final number.
Along the Lakeshore, in Dorval and Pointe-Claire, the water table sits naturally higher than elsewhere in the West Island because of how close the river is, which puts extra pressure on the foundation even outside heavy rain. In Pointe-Claire specifically, a good share of the original weeping drain is still clay tile laid before the 1970s, and those systems are reaching the end of their useful life at roughly the same time on the same streets — one more reason several neighbours end up facing the same problem in the same season.
Disconnecting downspouts from the combined sewer network before redoing the weeping drain cuts down on how much water it has to absorb during a heavy rain. It's a simple, low-cost step compared with the rest of the job, usually recommended alongside a new backwater valve rather than instead of it, so the freshly redone system isn't immediately overloaded again.
A floor drain that dries out completely over summer, from simple disuse, loses the water that normally seals the trap and lets sewer smell back up even with no real drainage problem. Pouring a litre of water down the drain once a month during dry spells fixes that specific issue, and it's worth telling apart from an actual backup.
We recommend a camera inspection of the weeping drain every 5 to 7 years on a property that's already had a backup, to track how sand or root buildup is progressing before it turns critical again. It's a modest expense next to an emergency excavation in the middle of a spring crisis.
Free written quote. We call back the same business day.
Pressure that's dropped for years, rusty water on start-up, an upstairs tap reduced to a trickle: classic signs of a galvanized pipe corroded shut from the inside.
A sewer smell in the basement, a damp stain tracking the stack, a slight sag at the base: century-old cast iron cracks from the inside before it shows on the outside.
Every thaw, the floor drain backs up before the weeping drain can keep up: a sign of a missing check valve or a foundation drain at the end of its life.
A new water heater plumbed onto rusted galvanized pipe will never deliver its full flow: we fix the cause, not just the symptom.